You'll also want to remove the servos and accumulator. The front servo comes apart by removing the snap ring that holds the cover in the bore. The rear servo comes out basically the same way. The accumulator just pulls out. To get the accumulator and servo pistons out of the case, you should twist them while pulling to avoid scrathing the bores.
Last, remove the band linkages. The pivot for the front linkage comes out after you remove a threaded pipe plug from inside the bellhousing. The pivot for the rear band is accessable after you remove the tailshaft.
What's left is the empty case. Another pic from the front and from the bottom.
Here's what I ended up with. I probably could have done better with a steam washer, but it's a lot better than it was. After the case it clean, you'll be able to see the cast-in part number on the passenger side, and the stampings on the driver side pan rail.
There will be 3 pairs of metal seals.
two of them go on the
reaction shaft These are the larger
ones with the interlocking fingers on the ends.
Two more go on the
governor assembly.
The last two rings go on the input shaft.
These are the smaller ones with the interlocking fingers.
One of the bushings goes in the front drum. The other goes in the front pump. You'll probably want to take these to a machine shop to have the new bushings put in. Also, the service manual shows how to stake the pump bushing in place.
There are also two bushings inside the sun gear. The service manual says that it isn't cost effective to replace these bushings, and if the gear or bushings are worn, the whole thing should be replaced.
There's a seal on the front pump. Make sure it gets completely seated. For the tailshaft housing, put the bearing back in, its snap ring and the output shaft seal. The seal that comes in the kit is for '66 and later transmissions. You'll need to get one seperately.
If you haven't taken it apart already, remove the top snap ring, pull out
the pressure plate and all the clutches and steel plates. Compress the
spring retainer with the tool I mentioned above and remove its snap ring.
Pull out the spring retainer all the springs, and finally the piston.
You can throw away the clutches and steel plates; new ones come in the kit.
Replace the inner rubber seal on the drum.
Replace the seal on the outer edge of the
piston, too.
Now, start to put it back together. Use lots of transmission fluid in the drum to help the piston seal get started in the bore. Install the piston into the drum. Be sure it's fully seated before you go to the next step.
Set the springs on the little fingers. Put the spring retainer back on and compress it until you can install the snap ring.
Note: Because of the way the piston and seals are situated, it's easy to fold or knick one of the seals when you install the piston into the drum. I ended up screwing it up on the first try and had to take it back apart and do it over. The service manual says to use Door Ease on the seals, a waxy product used to keep house doors from sticking or squeaking.
Now, put in the clutch disks alternating with steel plates, a pressure plate on the end, put the snap ring to lock it all in, and you end up with this. Be sure to measure the clearance between the pressure plate and snap ring to make sure it's within specs of what the service manual says.
Replace the inner and outer rubber seals on the piston. Insert the piston into its bore. Put the spring in and secure it with its snap ring. Put in the first pressure plate, alternate clutches and steel disks. Put on the top pressure plate and secure with its snap ring. Measure the clearance between the pressure plate and snap ring.
The governor and parking gear then slip onto the output shaft. Start it from the end with the threaded extension. Be careful not to nick the speedometer gear teeth. The parking gear will engage the splined part of the shaft and stop at a machined shoulder. Put on the larger snap ring to hold it in place.
Next, put the outer and inner pump rotors in place. Place the cover on top of everything and bolt it down. Make sure the cover is lined up the right way. Up is at the top of the picture.
A picture of the installed servos and accumulator.
Next, I installed the output shaft. There is a 1/4" ball bearing that sits in a semi-drilled hole. The ball bearing engages a slot in the rear pump rotor. Line up the slot and ball, and fully seat the parking gear seal rings into the rear pump cover. Here, you can see the output shaft going through the rear drum.
Next comes the rear planetary and annulus gears. The annulus should engage the splines in the output shaft, and the lugs in the planetary should engage the slots in the rear drum. Another picture of the same thing.
The driving shell goes on next. Don't forget the thrust washer that goes between the rear planetary and driving shell.
Stick on another thrust washer and then the front planetary and annulus gears. Don't forget the thrust washer that goes between them. The planetary should engage the splines in the output shaft.
There should now be just barely enough room to put the snap ring on the end. If there's too much extra space, you probably forgot a thrust washer. If there's not enough space, you probably put an extra thrust washer in between the rear planetary and annulus gears... Not that I would have wasted 2 hours before I figured that out.
Use a thin screwdriver to line up the teeth in the clutch disks and install the rear clutch pack. Make sure all the clutch disks have engaged the front annulus, and it has slipped all the way on. Don't forget the little washer that goes between the end of the output shaft before the clutch pack.
For the front clutch pack, line up the clutch teeth and fully seat the front drum into the rear clutch retainer. The lugs on the front drum should engage the slots in the driving shell. Don't forget the fiber washer that goes between the rear clutch retainer and the front drum.
Next, wiggle the front band into place, and attach the linkage hardware. The pivot for the front band lever gets installed through a hole inside the bellhousing. After the pivot is in place, the hole gets closed up by a pipe plug.
Finally, install the front pump. Use some long bolts or threaded rod as guides so it lines up properly. Don't forget the sheet metal vent baffle.
Next comes the apply lever. The pivot goes in via a small hole at the bottom of this picture. The rubber seal around one end of the pivot should be oriented down in this picture.
Next is the parking cable grabber thingy. The end of the spring has a bend that goes through the small hole in the apply lever.
While you're here, you can install the neutral safety switch.
The valve body is the brains of the transmission. There are many springs, ball bearings and precision machined valves in here. As you are taking things apart, be careful not to lose any small pieces, or scratch any of the surfaces.
Here's what it looks like to begin with. There's those packing bits again... Also, notice all the crud and varnish caked on. Now, turn it over and remove the 3 slotted screws, and the 14 screws that hold the valve body to the transfer plate. Leave in the two that hold down the reverse blocker valve at the top of the picture.
Leave the valve body upside down and take the transfer plate off. Remove the 6 screws that hold the steel plate to the transfer plate, and you'll be left with this. Take out the check valve and the reverse blocker valve.
Set the transfer plate aside and go back to the valve body. Remove the six check balls. Notice that one of them is larger than the others.
Remove the three screws that hold the bracket for the line pressure and torque convertor valve springs. Remove the line pressure valve and the torque convertor control valve.
Remove the little clip from the throttle input shaft and take off the rooster comb. Pull out the throttle input cam, manual valve and throttle valve.
Remove the cover plate to expose the governor and shuttle valves. To remove the shuttle valve, remove the E clip that holds it in, located off the top of this picture.
Remove the cover to get at the shift valves and springs.
Finally, remove the cover and regulator valves.
Here are a few pictures of all the valves and how they fit together.
Clean everything thoroughly. Here's a picture of all the same valve body parts after being cleaned. Use whatever you can to get into all those crevases and get every bit of crud out. Anything left in there can get stuck in a valve or check ball and make the transmission malfunction.
Put the transfer plate on top of the valve body and
install all the screws.
Turn it back over and install the spring
retainer bracket, throttle lever shaft and rooster comb.
